Like many of the parks in the U.S., Glacier is huge. You should go to Glacier if you want to see colossal valleys carved out by glaciers but NOT glaciers themselves. While there are a few glaciers they are heavily receded and are expected to have fully melted by 2030. You'll find plenty of hiking and backpacking opportunities through the colossal valleys. Expect long days and steep inclines. This is, however, the best way to explore the entire park.
If you prefer to relax, you can also sit back and enjoy the scenery from your car, horseback, or ferry. Don't expect to get to the most impressive views this way, though. That said, you can expect fantastic sunsets from the lodges and plenty of opportunities for wildlife viewing - we often spotted bears and moose either from the campgrounds themselves or just a short walk from them.
Regardless of your plans, remember that Glacier is a wilderness. Bring insect repellent or at least mosquito nets. Bear spray is recommended. Protect yourself from the elements and be prepared for the worst.
Unlike most other parks, visiting Glacier requires some meticulous planning due to the entry and permit limitations imposed on visitors. We'll guide you through the best parts, and maybe some of the less-traveled (but just as fantastic!) paths to ease your planning.
Many Glacier
The view from Many Glacier hotel overlooking Swiftcurrent Lake
Cracker Lake makes for a nice day hike from Many Glacier
Many Glacier is located on the north east corner of the park and was fairly remote. There was no cell phone reception or internet within 30 miles unless you are staying in Many Glacier Hotel or Swiftcurrent Inn. Most hiking trails begun near the Campground and Lodges. Outdoor dining was limited to the restaurants in the lodges, and the one grocery store in Babb and St Marys each.
Points of interest in Many Glacier include:
• Grinnell Glacier (Day Hike)
• Iceberg Lake (Day Hike)
• Cracker Lake (Day Hike)
• Apikuni Falls (Day Hike)
• Swiftcurrent Fire Lookout (Day Hike)
• Ptarmigan Lake & Tunnel (Day Hike)
• Grinnell Lake (Day Hike / Boat Ride)
• Poia Lake (Backpacking)
• Two Medicine (Day Hikes / Backpacking)
Going to the Sun Road
McDonald Falls can be seen from the road
The road climbs steeply to give you an overview of a good portion of the park
The Going-to-the-Sun road is the scenic mountain drive that cuts right through the heart of the park. If you are short on time, make sure to drive through this road if it is the only thing you do. Starting 2021, access to this road is ticketed to control road and human traffic. So make sure to plan ahead!
Points of interest along Going-to-the-Sun road include:
• The Highline (Day Hike)
• Logan Pass (Viewpoint / Picnic)
• Grinnell Overlook (Day Hike)
• Peigan Pass (Day Hike)
• Hidden Lake (Day Hike)
• Siyeh Pass (Day Hike)
• Sperry Chalet & Sperry Glacier (Backpacking)
• Gunsight & Ellen Wilson Lake & Jackson Glacier (Backpacking)
• Rising Sun and Saint Mary Lake (Day Hikes / Picnic)
Lake McDonald
This lake is huge, ensuring you will always find a quiet spot to yourself
Lake McDonald is a good place to kick back a bit
Lake McDonald is located just a few miles inside the West park entrance. It is a good place to setup the base camp, since it provides good access to Permit Station, Lake McDonald, Dining, Grocery, Laundry, and Going-to-the-Sun road viewpoints and trails.
Points of interest around Lake McDonald include:
• Lake McDonald (Glamp / Camp / Drive)
• Avalanche Lake (Day Hike)
• McDonald Falls (Viewpoint)
Camping
Chalets offer yet another way to spend the night in the park, but you'll have to reach them first
There are plenty of campgrounds inside the park. Some, like Many Glacier, accept reservations online. Others, like Sprague Creek, are first come, first served. Getting a site in any of these will also net you a pass for Going-to-the-Sun Road for those days. This is the most economical way to spend several days in the park (besides backpacking, of course).
If you're looking for a first come, first served site, you'll likely need to arrive quite early in the morning. We arrived at 4:30 to be second in line. Depending on how many sites are available, you may be able to get away with 5:00, but I wouldn't bother coming any later than that most days. We recommend surveying the interested campgrounds the day before for the upcoming availability and fill times.
A lot of the campgrounds have stopped allowing hammocks, so double-check with them before you start relying on one. The rangers will give you plenty to think about as well regarding the safety and health of the environment and yourself.
Hiking
The Highline trail is a must-do if you have the endurance
You'll find plenty of day hike options around Rising Sun and Saint Mary Lake
If you are day hiking, a bit of preparation can make things go more smoothly. Take note of water sources along the trail you plan to take - they can be sparse in some parts of the park. As always when you go out into the wilderness, track your position if you can (map and compass as backup) and keep some emergency supplies of food and water.
Some of our favorite trails include The Highline with Grinnell Overlook, Piegan Pass, Swiftcurrent Fire Lookout, Iceberg Lake, and Cracker Lake.
If you're going to do only one, make it The Highline. It is best hiked as a thru hike from either Logan Pass or The Loop. We choose to start at The Loop since it is easier to find parking and hitch hike back to the car. Grinnell Overlook is a small but strenuous detour on the The Highline but worth the effort.
Swiftcurrent Fire Lookout is long and strenuous especially towards the end, reaching the highest elevation in the park on foot offering spectacular views of the mountains and Granite chalet. Iceberg Lake is popular and a little less strenuous. Piegan and Cracker will be quieter, offering sweeping vistas and a very cool glacial lake, respectively.
Backpacking
The view from Sperry campground overlooking Lake McDonald, a great place to spend the night on your way up to the nearby glacier
Spending time at the Sperry glacier is easier if your camp is just at the base of the mountain
Backpacking doesn't require any special considerations outside of what you would normally expect. Getting a permit can be tricky, especially if you're after the walk-up permits like us. You can obtain permits in advance online, but keep in mind that it is more competitive, has a fee overhead, and provides less flexibility even though it offers more spots. We arrived about an hour and a half early to the ranger station for our permits, and that was enough to get us nearly to the front of the line. You'll also need to go through a quick video with the rangers before you can claim your permit, so expect to spend at least 30 minutes the first time you pick one up.
Our first backpacking trip was a short jaunt to Poia Lake. The meadows were fantastic - absolutely choc full of flowers and butterflies. It felt good to spend the night away from most other humans. However, the bugs there were atrocious! In general, if you are near some body of water, expect to be chased by clouds of mosquitoes and biting flies.
We then backpacked through Gunsight and Lake Ellen Wilson, then on through Sperry to Lake McDonald. A generous family gave us a ride back to our car on the other side of the park. There are plenty of opportunities for smaller day hikes along the way that you likely wouldn't attempt if you were simply day hiking, like the Jackson Glacier Overlook (unless you really like walking long distances in a single day!). This ended up being a great way to see the quieter side of the park and meet the locals.
Huckleberry Patch
This place deserves its own section. If you are near West Glacier, specifically in Hungry Horse, look for this little shop of magnificence. It was recommended by the locals who gave us a ride back to our car and it did not disappoint. They offer nearly anything you could think of with a huckleberry flavor - ice cream, shakes, pie, syrup... The huckleberry shakes are fantastic, but the most popular item is their double scoop of ice cream. Bring a friend - the Huckleberry Patch doesn't skimp on quantity.
