Bandhavgarh is one of India's premiere tiger reserves, nestled deep within the state of Madhya Pradesh. Getting there takes some time, making it a little less popular with crowds who instead prefer to go to places like Jim Corbett. Don't let that deter you, though - Bandhavgarh is also known for its rich biodiversity and natural beauty, and is renowned among wildlife enthusiasts.
Bandhavgarh is well known for its tiger density
The park is divided into core three zones, each one being unique and beautiful in its own way. The Tala zone, for example, contains the ruins of an ancient fortress and a statue of Lord Vishnu up on the side of a great mountain, the latter of which can be visited for a great view of the wet and lush valley below. The Magadhi zone is characterized by dense forest in between wide grasslands dotted with watering holes, and is great for spotting various wildlife. Finally, the Khitauli zone offers fantastic bamboo forests and its own elephant herd!
The Shesh Shaiya resting peacefully among the jungle
The core zones are the central part of the tiger reserve and no human habitation is allowed inside. They share their boundaries with the buffer zones. The buffer zone is the area that surrounds or adjoins the core areas where human habitation and other activities are permitted in a regulated manner. There are three buffer zones - Dhamokhar, Johila, and Panpatha.
You will often hear people talking about which is the "best zone." I can honestly say that I enjoyed them all, but then my goal was to see and explore the park. If you have limited time and your goal is to maximize tiger sighting chances, you may want to stick to the most recent "hotspots" instead.
A wildlife haven
The "best zone" is the one in which you have not yet been
Safaris
To enter a zone you will need a permit for that zone. Practically speaking, this means you will explore one zone at a time. Permits can be purchased for half-day safaris or full-day safaris. The advantage of the full-day safaris is that you can stay in the core zones the entire day, while the half-day safaris require you to leave at certain times, leaving a four-hour gap where you cannot enter even with two half-day permits. You can also go a little deeper, since you will have access to some roads where only full-day permit holders are allowed. On the other hand, the prices for full-day safari permits are a bit... extravagant. Also, note that the price of a permit is double the cost if you are not an Indian citizen.
If you're after spending the most possible time in the park for the least amount of money, then the morning half-day safaris are your best bet. They last twice as long, but cost the same as the afternoon safaris. That said, there's nothing quite like watching the sun set in the park, and we often saw tigers starting to roam as the sun got low in the sky, so you may miss out on some fantastic sights this way.
The highlight of any safari is spotting a tiger you can get reasonably close to
There is plenty for birders to see as well
You will also need a jeep, a driver, and a guide. The driver needs to be well-versed in the area to avoid getting lost or stuck and to get you places more quickly. You can bring your own jeep and driver if you have a favorite, otherwise, you will be assigned one randomly at the park. The guide is required and assigned randomly, and their job is to point out the interesting things you will see as well as to make sure you follow park rules and leave on time.
The jeeps do not have windows or roofs so be ready to face the elements. During peak summer months the heat can be absolutely scorching. Make sure to carry plenty of water, sunscreen, and full-length clothing. The park roads are very sandy and bumpy, so expect to be sandblasted. We highly recommend carrying sunglasses and a neck gaiter for protection.
The place is a tad warm in the summers, and big clouds of dust billow up from the dirt roads
You should bring something to drink, too
Within the park and near the buffer zones, you'll occasionally find a snack shack run by a group of the locals. Most of the tours will stop here late in the morning once the tigers are likely to be sleeping in the grass anyway. This is where I had the most terrifying cup of chai I have ever had. I ended up being fine, but by then my guts had also (mostly) adjusted to the local microbes, so drink at your own risk if you're just visiting.
Getting There
The nearest airport is in Jabalpur. From there it will take around four hours to drive to the park and most of the nearby resorts. You can hire a driver to take you, and that would be our recommendation. I would expect most of the resorts around the park to be able to organize travel for you to get there.
The town of Tala just outside the park is rather small, but you'll find a couple of gift shops and a restaurant or three. In general, the resorts should have you covered for the most part so that shouldn't be a problem.
